I picked Baku for families who want a short, easy trip with halal food everywhere and a short flight from the Gulf. You get a walled old city, a long seaside promenade and a few wild sights like fire hills and mud volcanoes.
Climbing the Maiden Tower in the Old CityGobustan rock art and bubbling mud volcanoesFlame Towers lighting up from Highland ParkBest in Apr, May, Jun, Sep, Oct
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Hotels, 3 nightsShown for your dates when you make it yours
Prices are checked when you open the plan, a month ahead. They are never saved in it.
Day 1 Arrive and walk the Boulevard
13:30Land at Heydar Aliyev International Airport, transfer to the BoulevardOrder a Bolt from the app outside arrivals, Uber works here too.Baku Airport · about 30 min · 15 to 25 AZN per car
15:00Check in and restAsk for a sea view room, the Caspian at sunset is worth it.Seaside Boulevard · about 2 hrs · FreeArrive by car
17:00Baku Boulevard and Little VeniceA long, flat seaside park with play areas, fountains and little gondola rides on the canals of Little Venice.Seaside Boulevard · about 1 hr 30 min · free, gondola about 5 to 10 AZN per personWalk, 10 min
18:45Fountain Square and Nizami StreetThe busy pedestrian heart of Baku with fountains, ice cream and bright shop fronts.City centre · about 45 min · FreeWalk, 10 min
19:30Dinner at FiruzeA long running basement restaurant of classic Azerbaijani food at fair prices, popular with families.Fountain Square · about 1 hr 15 min · 20 to 35 AZN · Order: Dolma (stuffed vine leaves) and lamb lula kebabWalk, 3 min
Tip: Meat in Azerbaijani restaurants is halal and pork is rare, though most places also serve alcohol.
Day 2 The Old City and the Flame Towers
10:00Palace of the ShirvanshahsA 15th century royal palace with a mosque, tombs and a bathhouse, all inside the old walls.Icherisheher (Old City) · about 1 hr · 15 AZN adults, children less
11:15Maiden TowerClimb the narrow stairs to the roof for a view over the Old City and the sea. Hold hands on the steps.Icherisheher (Old City) · about 45 min · 15 AZN adults, children lessWalk through the lanes, 10 min
12:30Lunch at Sehrli TendirA tiny spot next to the Maiden Tower baking bread in a clay tandir oven. Simple and very local.Icherisheher (Old City) · about 1 hr · 10 to 20 AZN · Order: Qutab (thin stuffed flatbreads) with herbs, cheese or meat, and fresh tandir breadWalk, 2 min
14:00Rest at the hotelBaku is hot and bright in summer afternoons, come back for a nap or the pool.Seaside Boulevard · about 2 hrs 30 min · FreeWalk or Bolt, 10 min
17:00Funicular up to Highland ParkA short ride up the hill from the Boulevard to Martyrs' Lane and the big viewing terrace over the bay.Highland Park · about 1 hr 30 min · 1 AZN per person with BakiKartBolt to the lower funicular station, 10 min
18:30Flame Towers light show at duskStay on the terrace as the three towers light up with moving flames, it is right above you.Highland Park · about 30 min · FreeWalk, 5 min
19:30Dinner at Mugam ClubInside an old caravanserai courtyard with live mugam music and folk dancing most evenings. Book ahead.Icherisheher (Old City) · about 1 hr 30 min · 35 to 60 AZN · Order: Shah plov, saffron rice baked in a crisp lavash crustBolt, 10 min
Tip: The Old City has a few small entry gates and cobbles, a light stroller works better than a big one.
Day 3 Rock art, mud volcanoes and the burning hill
09:00Drive to Gobustan National ParkHire a driver for the morning. The road runs south along the Caspian coast.Baku to Gobustan · about 1 hr · 60 to 90 AZN per car for the morning
10:00Gobustan rock art museum and petroglyphsA modern museum, then a short path among boulders carved with hunters, boats and animals up to 10,000 years ago. A UNESCO site.Gobustan · about 1 hr 30 min · 15 AZN adults, children lessArrive by car
11:45Mud volcanoesSmall cones of cold grey mud that bubble and burp, kids find it hilarious. The dirt track needs a local Lada taxi from the main road.Near Gobustan · about 1 hr · 30 to 40 AZN per car for the Lada taxiLada taxi on a dirt track, 20 min
13:30Lunch at ChinarA smart, airy restaurant with Asian dishes and a calm garden, a good change from kebabs.Below the Old City walls · about 1 hr 15 min · 40 to 70 AZN · Order: Dim sum and black codDrive, 1 hr 10 min
15:00Rest at the hotelA long break before the evening fire.Seaside Boulevard · about 2 hrs 30 min · FreeBolt, 10 min
18:00Yanar Dag, the burning mountainA hillside that has been on fire for decades from natural gas. Stand on the viewing deck and feel the heat.Absheron Peninsula · about 1 hr · 10 AZN adults, children lessBolt, 40 min
Tip: Wear closed shoes you do not mind getting muddy at the volcanoes, and carry wet wipes for little hands.
Day 4 Heydar Aliyev Center and the fire temple
10:00Heydar Aliyev CenterZaha Hadid's flowing white building. Inside are car, doll and model collections, and the lawns outside have big sculptures for photos.Heydar Aliyev Avenue · about 1 hr 45 min · 20 to 25 AZN adults, children less
12:30Lunch at Shirvanshah Muzey RestaurantEach dining room is a little museum of old carpets and copper, with traditional food done well.Salatin Askarova Street · about 1 hr 15 min · 30 to 50 AZN · Order: Saj with lamb and vegetables, and pakhlava with teaBolt, 10 min
14:00Back to the hotel to collect bagsTake your bags with you in the next car, the fire temple is on the way to the airport.Seaside Boulevard · about 30 min · FreeBolt, 10 min
14:45Ateshgah Fire TempleA small fortress-like temple built around an eternal flame, with rooms where old travellers and pilgrims stayed.Surakhani · about 1 hr · 10 to 15 AZN adults, children lessBolt, 35 min
16:00Transfer to Heydar Aliyev International AirportThe airport is only about 20 minutes from the fire temple.Baku Airport · about 20 min · 10 to 15 AZN per carBolt, 20 min
Tip: Change leftover manat in the city before leaving, exchange booths in the centre give better rates than the airport.
Where to stay
Baku, Seaside Boulevard and Old City · nights 1 to 4Walk to the Boulevard, Fountain Square and the Old City, with sea views from many rooms.
Fairmont Baku, Flame Towers luxury · about 300 to 550 AZN a night Inside one of the Flame Towers, with big family rooms and a pool.
Hilton Baku mid · about 220 to 380 AZN a night Sea views, a pool and a short walk to Fountain Square.
Park Inn by Radisson Azure Baku budget · about 130 to 220 AZN a night Simple, clean rooms across the road from the seaside park.
Hotel prices are typical. Make it yours to see today's prices for your dates.
What to eat
Shah plovat Mugam Club, Old City The festive rice dish baked in a lavash crown, cut open at the table.
Qutabat Sehrli Tendir, Old City Thin folded flatbreads with herbs, pumpkin or meat, a cheap and tasty lunch.
Dolmaat Firuze, Fountain Square Vine leaves or vegetables stuffed with spiced lamb and rice, served with yoghurt.
Lula kebabat Firuze, Fountain Square Minced lamb kebab grilled over coals, every child's favourite.
Saj and pakhlavaat Shirvanshah Muzey Restaurant, Salatin Askarova Street A sizzling iron pan of meat and vegetables, then layered nut pastry with black tea.
Dim sum and seafoodat Chinar, below the Old City walls Baku's smartest Asian restaurant, nice when the kids want a break from rice and kebab.
Evenings in Baku are relaxed and very family friendly. The Boulevard and Fountain Square stay busy with families and strollers until late in summer.
Why it is planned this way
I put Gobustan first thing on day 3, there is almost no shade there by midday.
I timed Yanar Dag for dusk because the flames are hard to see in bright sunshine.
I put the fire temple on the last afternoon because it sits on the way to the airport.
I kept the Heydar Aliyev Center off Mondays in the notes, since it is closed that day.