I made this for a long weekend for two, with old stone lanes by day and glowing towers by night. Baku is close to the Gulf, easy to get around and the food is halal almost everywhere.
Dinner with live mugam music in an old caravanseraiThe Flame Towers glowing from Highland ParkZaha Hadid's Heydar Aliyev CenterBest in Apr, May, Jun, Sep, Oct
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Hotels, 2 nightsShown for your dates when you make it yours
Prices are checked when you open the plan, a month ahead. They are never saved in it.
Day 1 Golden hour in the Old City
13:30Land at Heydar Aliyev International Airport, transfer to the Old CityBolt or Uber from the pickup zone outside arrivals is the easy choice.Baku Airport · about 30 min · 15 to 25 AZN per car
15:00Check in and restA short rest, then head out as the heat drops.Neftchilar Avenue · about 2 hrs · FreeArrive by car
17:00Stroll the Old City lanesEnter through the Double Gates and wander past carpet shops, caravanserais and the Maiden Tower as the stone turns gold.Icherisheher (Old City) · about 1 hr 15 min · FreeWalk, 5 min
18:30Sunset walk on Baku BoulevardCross to the seaside promenade and walk past the carpet shaped Carpet Museum as the sun goes down over the bay.Seaside Boulevard · about 1 hr · FreeWalk, 5 min
20:00Dinner at Mugam ClubCandlelit tables in a 17th century caravanserai courtyard with live mugam music. Book a table near the musicians.Icherisheher (Old City) · about 1 hr 30 min · 35 to 60 AZN · Order: Shah plov and lamb kebabWalk, 10 min
Tip: Meat in Azerbaijani restaurants is halal and pork is rare, though alcohol is served in most places.
Day 2 Ancient carvings, palace and the Flame Towers
09:00Drive to Gobustan National ParkBook a driver for the morning, they also arrange the Lada taxi to the mud volcanoes.Baku to Gobustan · about 1 hr · 60 to 90 AZN per car for the morning
10:00Gobustan rock art museum and petroglyphsA UNESCO site of rock carvings up to 10,000 years old, with a good modern museum at the entrance.Gobustan · about 1 hr 30 min · 15 AZNArrive by car
11:45Mud volcanoesLittle cones of grey mud that gurgle and pop on an empty plain, strange and memorable.Near Gobustan · about 1 hr · 30 to 40 AZN per car for the Lada taxiLada taxi on a dirt track, 20 min
13:30Lunch at Sehrli TendirA tiny bakery restaurant by the Maiden Tower, bread straight from the clay oven.Icherisheher (Old City) · about 1 hr · 10 to 20 AZN · Order: Qutab with herbs and meat, and hot tandir breadDrive, 1 hr 10 min
15:00Palace of the Shirvanshahs and the Maiden TowerSee the 15th century royal palace, then climb the Maiden Tower for the rooftop view over the sea.Icherisheher (Old City) · about 2 hrs · 15 AZN eachWalk, 5 min
18:00Funicular up to Highland Park for the Flame TowersRide up to the terrace over the bay and wait for the towers above you to light up with moving flames.Highland Park · about 1 hr 30 min · 1 AZN with BakiKartWalk, 15 min
20:00Dinner at ChinarBaku's most stylish restaurant, with a garden terrace and a moody lantern lit dining room. Book ahead.Below the Old City walls · about 1 hr 30 min · 60 to 100 AZN · Order: Dim sum and black codBolt, 10 min
Tip: Load 10 AZN onto a BakiKart for the funicular and metro, one card works for both of you.
Day 3 Modern Baku and the burning hill
10:00Heydar Aliyev CenterWalk around Zaha Hadid's flowing white building first for photos, then go inside for the exhibitions.Heydar Aliyev Avenue · about 1 hr 30 min · 20 to 25 AZN
12:15Nizami Street and Fountain SquareBaku's main pedestrian street, good for a coffee and a browse before lunch.City centre · about 30 min · FreeBolt, 15 min
12:45Lunch at FiruzeA cosy basement restaurant with classic Azerbaijani dishes at fair prices.Fountain Square · about 1 hr · 20 to 35 AZN · Order: Dushbara, tiny lamb dumplings in broth, and dolmaWalk, 3 min
14:00Back to the hotel to collect bagsBring the bags in the car, Yanar Dag is on the way out of the city.Neftchilar Avenue · about 30 min · FreeWalk, 10 min
14:45Yanar Dag, the burning mountainA hillside that has burned non stop for decades from natural gas leaking through the rock.Absheron Peninsula · about 45 min · 10 AZNBolt, 40 min
16:15Transfer to Heydar Aliyev International AirportOrder the next Bolt from the Yanar Dag car park.Baku Airport · about 35 min · 15 to 25 AZN per carBolt, 35 min
Tip: Change leftover manat in the city, airport exchange rates are poor.
Where to stay
Baku, Old City and Neftchilar Avenue · nights 1 to 3Steps from the Old City gates and the seafront, so every evening ends with a short walk home.
Four Seasons Hotel Baku luxury · about 650 to 1,100 AZN a night A grand Beaux Arts style hotel between the Old City walls and the sea.
Shah Palace Hotel mid · about 170 to 280 AZN a night Stay inside the old walls in a hotel built in traditional style.
Park Inn by Radisson Azure Baku budget · about 130 to 220 AZN a night Good value, clean rooms facing the seaside park.
Hotel prices are typical. Make it yours to see today's prices for your dates.
What to eat
Shah plovat Mugam Club, Old City Saffron rice baked in a lavash crown and cut open at the table, the dish for a special night.
Qutabat Sehrli Tendir, Old City Thin folded flatbreads straight from the oven, cheap and delicious.
Dushbaraat Firuze, Fountain Square Tiny lamb dumplings in a clear broth with dried mint.
Dolmaat Firuze, Fountain Square Vine leaves stuffed with spiced lamb and rice, with garlic yoghurt.
Dim sum and black codat Chinar, below the Old City walls The city's most romantic dinner room.
Black tea with pakhlava and jamat Tea houses inside the Old City Azerbaijanis drink tea from pear shaped glasses with a spoon of cherry jam, a lovely slow break.
Baku evenings are calm and elegant. The Boulevard, Fountain Square and the lit up Old City walls are full of couples and families strolling until late.
Why it is planned this way
I put Gobustan first thing on day 2, the site has no shade and gets hot by noon.
I saved Highland Park for dusk so you see the Flame Towers switch on from right beneath them.
I booked your first dinner at Mugam Club because the live music sets the mood for the whole trip.
I placed Yanar Dag on the way to the airport to save you a separate trip out of the city.