I made this for couples who want Kashmir at its most romantic: sunsets from a shikara, a glacier in Sonamarg and a cosy night in snowy Gulmarg. It's slow, scenic and very easy to love.
Sunset shikara ride on Dal LakeA pony ride to Thajiwas Glacier in SonamargA night in Gulmarg after the gondolaBest in Apr, May, Jun, Sep, Oct
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Hotels, 4 nightsShown for your dates when you make it yours
Prices are checked when you open the plan, a month ahead. They are never saved in it.
Day 1 Arrive and drift on Dal Lake
13:00Land at Srinagar Airport, transfer to your Dal Lake houseboatThere's a security check as you leave the airport, keep your ID handy.Airport to Dal Lake · about 45 min · 800 to 1,500 INR per car
14:15Check in, kahwa and lunch on the houseboatSit out on the front veranda and watch the shikaras go by. Ask the cook for vegetarian dishes if you like, they're happy to make them.Dal Lake · about 2.5 hrs · lunch 400 to 900 INR per personShikara from the ghat, 10 min
17:00Sunset shikara rideLie back on the cushions as the mountains turn pink. Ask the boatman to take you past Char Chinar island.Dal Lake · about 2 hrs · 800 to 1,500 INR per boat per hourFrom the houseboat
19:30Candlelit dinner on the houseboatAsk for dinner on the veranda. Good vegetarian options like dum aloo and nadru yakhni.Dal Lake · about 1.5 hrs · 500 to 1,000 INR per person · Order: Rogan josh or Kashmiri dum aloo with saffron riceBack on board
Tip: Agree the shikara price per hour before you set off, and pay at the end.
Day 2 Mughal gardens and Srinagar's best views
09:00Shalimar BaghThe garden Jahangir built for Nur Jahan, with chinar trees and long water channels. Quiet first thing in the morning.Srinagar · about 1 hr · 25 to 50 INR per person
10:15Nishat BaghTwelve terraces stepping down to Dal Lake. The top terrace has the best view back over the water.Boulevard Road · about 1 hr · 25 to 50 INR per personCar, 10 min
11:30Chashme ShahiThe smallest Mughal garden, built around a natural spring. Taste the cold spring water.Zabarwan hills · about 45 min · 25 to 50 INR per personCar, 15 min
12:45Lunch at Krishna Vaishno BhojnalayaA simple, famous pure vegetarian dhaba. Don't expect frills, just the best rajma in town.Durganag, near Dal Gate · about 45 min · 200 to 400 INR per person · Order: Rajma chawal and Kashmiri dum alooCar, 20 min
14:00Rest on the houseboatNap, read, or let the floating sellers come to you with saffron and papier mache.Dal Lake · about 2.5 hrs · FreeWalk to the ghat, then shikara, 15 min
17:15Sunset at Pari MahalA ruined Mughal school of astronomy on terraces high above Dal Lake. The best sunset view in Srinagar.Above Chashme Shahi · about 1 hr · 25 to 50 INR per personCar, 30 min
19:45Dinner at Mughal DarbarA long running favourite for Wazwan. Good vegetarian options too.Residency Road, Srinagar · about 1.5 hrs · 800 to 1,600 INR per person · Order: Gushtaba and rista, or paneer and haak with riceCar, 25 min
Tip: Wear comfortable shoes, the Mughal gardens are all steps and terraces.
Day 3 Day trip to Sonamarg
08:00Drive from Srinagar to SonamargThe road follows the Sindh river up a deep green valley. Book a car for the whole day.Srinagar to Sonamarg · about 2.5 hrs · 4,000 to 6,000 INR per car, return
10:45Pony ride to Thajiwas GlacierA ride through meadows and pine woods to snow fields under the glacier. Fix the price with the pony union counter first.Sonamarg · about 2.5 hrs · 1,500 to 2,500 INR per pony, returnCar to the pony stand
13:30Lunch at a Sonamarg dhabaSimple roadside places by the river serve hot, filling food. Good vegetarian options.Sonamarg market · about 1 hr · 300 to 700 INR per person · Order: Rajma chawal or Maggi with a cup of kahwaPony back and walk, 10 min
14:45Walk by the Sindh riverFind a flat rock by the water and just sit. The meadow here is called the meadow of gold for a reason.Sonamarg · about 45 min · FreeWalk, 5 min
15:30Drive back to SrinagarDoze or watch the valley go by.Sonamarg to Srinagar · about 2.5 hrs · included in the car hireCar, 2.5 hrs
19:30Dinner on the houseboatA quiet night in after a long day. Good vegetarian options.Dal Lake · about 1 hr · 500 to 1,000 INR per person · Order: Nadru yakhni, haak and rice, then phirniBack on board
Tip: Carry warm jackets and sunglasses for Sonamarg. If you want to go higher to Zero Point past Zojila, you have to switch to a local Sonamarg taxi.
Day 4 Up to Gulmarg
08:30Check out and drive to GulmargApple orchards and then pine forests as you climb past Tangmarg.Srinagar to Gulmarg · about 2 hrs · 2,500 to 3,500 INR per car, one way
10:45Gulmarg GondolaDrop your bags at the hotel first. Phase 1 to Kongdori, then Phase 2 to Apharwat for snow and huge views if the weather is clear.Gulmarg · about 2.5 hrs · 800 to 1,000 INR per person for Phase 1, about 1,000 to 1,200 INR for Phase 2Walk from the hotel, 10 min
13:30Lunch at The Khyber Himalayan ResortBig windows on the mountains and a fireplace in winter. Good vegetarian options.Gulmarg · about 1 hr · 1,500 to 3,000 INR per person · Order: Kashmiri rajma and rice, or tabak maazWalk, 5 min
15:00Check in and restWarm up with kahwa by the window.Gulmarg · about 1.5 hrs · FreeWalk or car, 5 min
16:45St Mary's Church and the meadow at golden hourWalk across the meadow to the little 1902 stone church as the light turns gold on the peaks.Gulmarg · about 1.5 hrs · FreeWalk, 15 min
19:30Dinner at your hotelGulmarg is dark and very quiet at night, so make it a slow dinner by the fire. Good vegetarian options.Gulmarg · about 1.5 hrs · 1,000 to 2,500 INR per person · Order: Kashmiri pulao with dum aloo, then phirniWalk, 15 min
Tip: Rent snow boots and coats at the gondola base for Phase 2, it's freezing up there even in May.
Day 5 A slow mountain morning and fly home
08:00Morning walk around the Gulmarg meadowThe meadow is empty and misty early. Walk the path along the golf course, one of the highest in the world.Gulmarg · about 1 hr · Free
09:15Long breakfast at the hotelKashmiri girda bread with butter and kahwa, then pack up.Gulmarg · about 1.5 hrs · usually includedWalk, 5 min
11:00Drive from Gulmarg to SrinagarCheck out and head down. Ask the driver to wait for you through lunch and shopping.Gulmarg to Srinagar · about 2 hrs · 3,000 to 4,500 INR per car including the airport dropFrom the hotel
13:15Lunch at AhdoosOne last Kashmiri feast at the city's best known restaurant, running since 1918. Good vegetarian options.Residency Road, Srinagar · about 1 hr · 700 to 1,500 INR per person · Order: Rogan josh or Kashmiri dum aloo, with kahwa to finishCar, 2 hrs
14:20Kashmir Government Arts EmporiumFixed price pashmina shawls, carpets and papier mache in an old British Residency building. No bargaining stress.Residency Road, Srinagar · about 40 min · variesWalk, 5 min
15:15Transfer to Srinagar AirportThere are two security checks, one at the airport gate and one inside. Be there 2.5 hours before your flight.Residency Road to the airport · about 40 min · included in the day's car hireFrom Residency Road
Tip: Buy real saffron and pashmina only from government or long established shops, fakes are common.
Where to stay
Srinagar, Dal Lake and Nigeen Lake houseboats · nights 1 to 3Waking up on the water is the most romantic part of Kashmir.
Sukoon Houseboat luxury · about 25,000 to 40,000 INR a night Polished, modern comforts on a classic houseboat.
Butt's Clermont Houseboats mid · about 8,000 to 14,000 INR a night Historic houseboats by a quiet garden, very peaceful.
Gurkha Houseboats mid · about 7,000 to 12,000 INR a night Calmer lake and long established hosts.
Gulmarg, Near the gondola · nights 4Stay up the mountain for quiet evenings and an early misty walk.
The Khyber Himalayan Resort and Spa luxury · about 30,000 to 50,000 INR a night Gulmarg's finest, with a heated pool and mountain views.
Hotel Highlands Park mid · about 12,000 to 20,000 INR a night A classic old hotel with wooden cottages and character.
Nedous Hotel mid · about 9,000 to 15,000 INR a night Historic hotel on the meadow, warm and simple.
Hotel prices are typical. Make it yours to see today's prices for your dates.
What to eat
Wazwan: rogan josh and gushtabaat Ahdoos, Residency Road, Srinagar Kashmir's royal feast, served here since 1918.
Rista and gushtabaat Mughal Darbar, Residency Road, Srinagar Soft meatballs in rich gravies, the heart of Wazwan.
Rajma chawalat Krishna Vaishno Bhojnalaya, Durganag, Srinagar Pure vegetarian and loved by everyone who visits.
Kashmiri dum alooat On your Dal Lake houseboat The vegetarian star of Kashmiri cooking.
Nadru yakhniat On your Dal Lake houseboat Lotus stem from the lake in a gentle yoghurt curry.
Kahwaat Everywhere, from houseboats to Sonamarg dhabas Saffron green tea with almonds, the taste of Kashmir.
Kashmir has no real nightlife and very few bars, evenings are for houseboat verandas, kahwa and early nights. That's the charm.
Why it is planned this way
I put your shikara ride at sunset on day 1, it's the moment that makes Kashmir click.
I kept Pari Mahal for the end of day 2 because it has the best sunset view over Dal Lake.
I gave you a night up in Gulmarg so you see the meadow empty in the evening and early morning.
I planned the last lunch and shopping on Residency Road, it's only 40 minutes from the airport.