I made this for two people who want the famous sights by day and the water, the views and good food by night. You stay by the Bosphorus in Karaköy, a short tram ride from the old city.
Rooftop dinner facing Hagia SophiaBosphorus cruise and sunset at Maiden's TowerDolmabahçe Palace on the waterBest in Apr, May, Jun, Sep, Oct
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Hotels, 3 nightsShown for your dates when you make it yours
Prices are checked when you open the plan, a month ahead. They are never saved in it.
Day 1 Arrive, Galataport sunset and İstiklal
14:00Land at Istanbul Airport, transfer to KaraköyA meet and greet driver saves you the taxi queue after a long flight.Istanbul Airport · about 1 hr 10 min · 1,500 to 3,000 TRY per car
15:30Check in at your Karaköy hotelFreshen up and rest; tonight is all short walks.Karaköy · about 1 hr 30 min · FreeArrive by transfer
17:00Sunset walk on the Galataport promenadeA wide seafront path with the old city skyline across the water. Grab a tea and a bench.Karaköy · about 1 hr 30 min · FreeWalk, 6 min
19:30Dinner at Hacı AbdullahOttoman home cooking since 1888, with no alcohol on the menu. Try the jars of fruit compote that line the walls.Beyoğlu · about 1 hr 15 min · 900 to 1,500 TRY · Order: Hünkar beğendi (lamb on smoky aubergine purée)Taxi, 10 min
21:00Evening stroll down İstiklal Avenue to Galata TowerWalk the lit up avenue past the old tram line, stop at Mandabatmaz for a thick Turkish coffee, and end at the tower glowing above the lanes.Beyoğlu · about 1 hr · FreeWalk, 20 min
Tip: Tap your Istanbulkart for both of you; one card can pay for two people on trams and ferries.
Day 2 The old city and a rooftop dinner
09:00Hagia SophiaVisitors use the upper gallery entrance. Dress modestly; women need a headscarf.Sultanahmet · about 1 hr 15 min · Approx 1,300 TRY per person (priced at 25 EUR)
10:30Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed Mosque)Shoes off at the door, knees and shoulders covered.Sultanahmet · about 45 min · FreeWalk, 5 min
11:30Basilica CisternDim, cool and atmospheric, with soft lighting on the old columns. A lovely spot for photos together.Sultanahmet · about 45 min · Approx 1,950 TRY per personWalk, 6 min
13:00Lunch at Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim UstaGrilled köfte made the same way since 1920. Fast and simple.Sultanahmet · about 45 min · 350 to 600 TRY · Order: Köfte with piyaz (white bean salad)Walk, 3 min
14:30Grand BazaarLook for lamps, ceramics and scarves. Bargain with a smile and walk away if the price feels wrong.Beyazıt · about 2 hrs · free to enterWalk, 15 min
17:15Süleymaniye Mosque at golden hourThe garden terrace behind the mosque looks straight down the Golden Horn. The best sunset spot in the old city.Süleymaniye · about 1 hr · FreeWalk uphill, 12 min
19:30Dinner at Seven Hills RestaurantA rooftop between Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, both lit up at night. Book a table at the terrace edge. Alcohol is served here; the meat is halal.Sultanahmet · about 1 hr 30 min · 1,800 to 3,000 TRY · Order: Grilled sea bass or lamb chopsTaxi, 10 min
Tip: Bring a light scarf today for both mosques, and wear shoes you can slip on and off.
Day 3 Topkapı, a Bosphorus cruise and a sunset across the water
09:00Topkapı PalaceBuy tickets online and walk straight to the Harem, then the terraces over the Bosphorus.Sultanahmet · about 3 hrs · Approx 2,750 TRY per person including the Harem
12:30Fish sandwich on the boats at EminönüThe famous rocking boats by Galata Bridge grill fish all day. Eat at the little stools by the water.Eminönü · about 45 min · 250 to 400 TRY · Order: Balık ekmek with a cup of pickle juiceWalk downhill or T1 tram, 15 min
13:30Bosphorus cruise from EminönüThe 90 minute round trip runs up past the palaces and under both bridges. Sit on the top deck on the left going up.Eminönü · about 1 hr 30 min · Approx 200 to 600 TRY per personWalk, 3 min
15:30Spice BazaarTaste before you buy lokum, saffron and dried fruit. Shops pack them for the flight.Eminönü · about 1 hr · free to enterWalk, 5 min
17:00Ferry to Üsküdar and sunset at SalacakSit on the sea wall facing Maiden's Tower with tea and simit while the sun sets behind the old city.Üsküdar · about 1 hr 45 min · Approx 45 TRY per person for the ferryFerry from Eminönü 20 min, then walk 12 min
19:30Dinner at Hamdi RestaurantAsk for a window table on the top floor; the Golden Horn lights up after dark.Eminönü · about 1 hr 30 min · 900 to 1,600 TRY · Order: Pistachio kebab, then künefe to shareWalk to Üsküdar pier, ferry to Eminönü, 35 min
Tip: If day 3 lands on a Tuesday, do it on day 2 instead and move the old city day here.
Day 4 Turkish breakfast, Dolmabahçe and home
09:00Breakfast at Van Kahvaltı EviA long, slow Turkish breakfast spread is the best way to start a last morning.Cihangir · about 1 hr 15 min · 700 to 1,200 TRY · Order: Serpme kahvaltı (breakfast spread) with otlu peynir and honey with clotted cream
10:45Dolmabahçe PalaceThe sultans' 19th century palace on the water, with the giant crystal chandelier. No photos inside the rooms.Beşiktaş · about 2 hrs · Approx 2,000 TRY per person for both sectionsTaxi, 10 min
13:15Kumpir by Ortaköy MosqueTake your stuffed potato to the waterfront for the classic photo of the mosque under the Bosphorus Bridge.Ortaköy · about 1 hr · 300 to 500 TRY · Order: Kumpir (baked potato with your choice of fillings)Taxi, 10 min
14:30Collect your bags at the hotelAsk the hotel to hold your bags at checkout and book the car for 15:30.Karaköy · about 1 hr · FreeTaxi, 20 min
15:30Transfer to Istanbul AirportBe at the airport 3 hours before your flight; it is huge and lines can be long.Istanbul Airport · about 1 hr 10 min · 1,500 to 3,000 TRY per carPrivate car or taxi, 55 to 70 min
Tip: If day 4 is a Monday, Dolmabahçe is closed; take a morning Bosphorus walk from Bebek to Arnavutköy instead.
Where to stay
Istanbul, Karaköy and Galata · nights 1 to 4On the water, full of cafes, and one tram ride from the old city.
The Peninsula Istanbul luxury · about 35,000 to 55,000 TRY a night Right on the Bosphorus with a rooftop and spa; ask for a sea view room.
Pera Palace Hotel luxury · about 12,000 to 20,000 TRY a night The grand 1892 hotel of the Orient Express era, full of old world romance.
Georges Hotel Galata mid · about 7,000 to 11,000 TRY a night Small, stylish and steps from Galata Tower, with a rooftop terrace.
Hotel prices are typical. Make it yours to see today's prices for your dates.
What to eat
Hünkar beğendiat Hacı Abdullah, Beyoğlu Palace style lamb on aubergine purée in a restaurant open since 1888.
Pistachio kebabat Hamdi Restaurant, Eminönü Excellent kebab with a view of the Golden Horn.
Köfteat Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta, Sultanahmet The old town's classic quick lunch.
Balık ekmekat Fish boats by Galata Bridge, Eminönü Fun, cheap and very Istanbul.
Turkish breakfast spreadat Van Kahvaltı Evi, Cihangir Dozens of small plates; plan a slow morning.
Kumpirat Stalls by the waterfront, Ortaköy A loaded baked potato with the best mosque view in town.
Turkish coffeeat Mandabatmaz, off İstiklal Avenue A tiny alley cafe famous for its thick foam.
Evenings here are about views, not nightlife: rooftops, ferries and long dinners, then a walk down İstiklal while the shops stay open late.
Why it is planned this way
I booked your dinners where the view does the work: a rooftop facing Hagia Sophia and a window over the Golden Horn.
I put the Bosphorus cruise right after lunch, so you are back in time for sunset at Salacak.
Topkapı is closed on Tuesdays and Dolmabahçe on Mondays, so I spread them over different days.